Invasive Plants

I had never thought of the magnificent Casuarinas that loom over the southern exposure of my house as invasive.  Massive, yes.  Incredibly hard wood, yes that’s why it’s called ironwood. And bright red roots aggressively seek moisture and nutrients.  When I was first getting the hang of worm composting a few years ago, I made the mistake of placing the worm bin directly on the ground.  It was summer. The bin was about 20 feet away from one of the biggest trees.   It was well watered and shaded from the harsh heat, but what I found out too late is that the roots had invaded the worm bin.  By the time I noticed the roots had reached throughout every part of the worm bin and most of the worms had migrated out.  This surprising event made me recognize my need to be more vigilant if I wanted success with vermi-culture.  The trees near my house are over 50 feet tall, having been allowed to grow tall and thick over twenty years or so, but this tree can also be managed as a low hedge through coppicing.  The needle-like vegetation is nutritious to sheep and cattle.   This tree’s versatility and value as a forage make it a winner, just one to watch out for.

Another introduced plant that I have been sparring with is the rootstock of a Passiflora that sends endless runners to suck moisture then launches new shoots over established plants. I take comfort in the fact that it is hard to eradicate by remembering that it produces a lot of succulent green matter for the compost.   With great effort it could perhaps be trained on an attractive topiary structure, but it’s flowers are not the showiest and the fruit are not edible.  Best for the compost I think.

The worst ‘weeds’ are classified by their invasiveness.   They have the ability to become resistant to herbicide sprays, so farmers are advised to vary and ‘change up’ the sprays with different products to fight the development of herbicide resistant weeds.  Unfortunately I cannot resist mentioning that the one thing weeds will never become resistant to is the hoe.   Follow KrsnaKumari on Twitter

Garden Insights for 2010

My garden is a small, tree-circled zone, about 3/4 acre altogether, but really providing  less than 1000 square feet of sunny planting space. Dominant trees include Casuarina, Sycamore, Oak, Pine, Poplar and Privot.  Surrounding this is quite vast acreage on 3 sides that are alternatively planted to row crops. Over the past 4 years the line-up has consisted primarily of Tomato, Safflower, Wheat, Oats, Sunflower and Corn.

Humbling Revelations

Making or acquiring sufficient compost to overcome the incredibly opportunistic roots of Casuarina trees would have made a big difference, but was beyond my capacity.  Raised beds with root resistant barrier cloth at the bottom is probably the best approach for vegetable production in the small sunny spot available.  Though I did not muster the resources for that envisioned project, I still managed to produce some tomatoes, okra, peppers, peas and plenty of swiss chard, kale and mustard greens.

Summary Thoughts

1.  Ground squirrels, gophers and moles, turkeys, deer and coyotes can seriously and negatively affect plant growth and harvest potential.  Even our own pets weigh in on plant selection; changing and adding pathways, increasing the size of holes, etc.  Work around by increasing the number of plantings and accepting a higher level of ambiguity and uncertainty.  Try out tough, shade tolerant, edible perrenials like currants or gooseberry to create vertical growth that is easier to protect. Fence and discourage predators whenever practical.

2.  Cleavers (Galium ssp).is considered by many to be a ‘weed’, however in my garden this spring and summer, cleavers growing up with the unruly spearmint and Passiflora on the east side of the house served as a welcome helper.  As an alternative to harsh trimming I decided to use the cleavers to ‘clasp’ the spearmint in stepping stone areas where I didn’t want them to grow.  It works like velcro, sticking to itself nicely, and will present some semblance of order if you’re willing to take the time to do a little plant weaving.  http://www.plantsystematics.org/imgs/dws/r/Rubiaceae_Galium_odoratum_12598.html

3.  Direct seeded wildflower blends are great to try out for difficult areas.  ‘Weeds’ are sometimes actually under-apreciated allies for health.  From a design point of view, they can help you to balance a garden’s low maintenance objectives with productivity and beauty.  Try planting wildflowers to attract wildlife and provide seasonal color, then harvest your own herbal medicinals, such as Saint John’s Wort, Evening Primrose and Burdock.

4.  You can never make too much compost.  Vermicomposting is worth a go.   http://www.redwormcomposting.com/ http://www.worms.com/worm-factory.html

5.  Always look for opportunities to plant more trees, especially food producing ones.  Don’t forget edible espaliers, hedges and windrows,and wildly productive ‘freelance’ plantings that defy the odds.  Support regional and activist movements to restore forests and orchards and protect water supplies.  http://www.treesforlife.org.uk/

6.  Trees can grow into a house: http://www.urbangardensweb.com/2009/07/23/how-to-grow-your-own-living-house/

7.  Trees can grow into furniture. and so much more: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tree_shaping

8.  Patenting ‘Life’ creates problems.  Seed saving is a mainstay of  ‘Food Democracy.’  Safety and ethics of GMO derived food, drug and pesticide products is in question.  If you are open to considering alternative paradigms, please check out: http://onthecommons.org/art-and-practice-common-ground